Saturday, June 30, 2007

June 29

June 29th (rainy, howling winds)
We awoke to howling winds and crashing rain. We packed quickly and began our drive towards Dover to catch a committed 12:15 ferry. George was also worried that the weather and road conditions may delay our arrival, so we gave ourselves ample time which we definitely needed as we momentarily lost our way, resulting in a 60 mile detour.
Upon our arrival at Dover, the weather continued to worsen. Swells in the harbor were 12 – 15 feet high. We thought the sailing might be cancelled, but instead it was delayed one hour. While waiting for the one hour at the terminal, we observed a busload of rugby players in full Hawaiian garb standing on the tarmac singing and getting absolutely soaked “inside and out” – some things never change! The journey across the English Channel was so rough that I felt “green”. George loved the rough and tumble ride and watching people being sick on board and overboard.
We arrived at Calais only to see that the “big, black cloud” had followed us. Plans changed. Our intentions were to leisurely travel the side roads, but unfortunately in this storm, we decided to get onto the super highway and head south a.s.a.p. After 12 hours of travel, we stopped at a campground 45 kms north of Paris. Had a couple of drinks, dinner and totally crashed. PS – Susi ran like a charm.

June 28

June 28th (cloudy, windy and rainy)
Drove back into Bath this morning and walked around. Lovely old university city with world famous Roman baths that we refused to pay $40 Cdn to view. Instead, we found it quite interesting to observe the University of Bath’s graduation ceremony taking place at the cathedral in the town centre. As you have probably noticed, we are not going to many tourist attractions and prefer to rub elbows with the natives. We drove through to Stone Henge and continued to drive through Portsmouth to Brighton. If the weather was a bit better, we would have stayed in Brighton for a few days to recharge our batteries. It looked absolutely gorgeous. We understand it to be a favourite summer resort area of the Brits.
We drove further and stayed the night in Pevensey, a beautiful little spot on the North Sea with an endless sandy beach. It was very windy, but warmer, and we enjoyed walking on the beach watching the windsurfers go through their aerial routines. Thank goodness George thought to bring along our toques. I immediately telephoned the contact for “discounted ferry prices” for our Dover to Calais ferry tomorrow. It was a pleasant surprise to pay 71L’s and not the 120L’s we paid from Calais to Dover. Our savings worked out to $100 Cdn.
The winds and rain continued all through the evening and into the night. We went to bed early hoping for a change in weather tomorrow.

June 27

June 27th (overcast, showers)
Because of the clouds and intermittent rain for most of the day, we were not able to enjoy the scenery on our drive as much as if it was sunny and bright. Today we decided that this leg of the trip would be cut a bit short, however it has only been this last week that the weather has obviously come into play. We have been reducing the distances in order to get the ferry back to France and head south to get some warmth.
We drove through Cardiff and didn’t feel it necessary to spend a lot of time there because for us, it was just another larger city. Considering the amount of traffic and the road conditions per se, we witnessed the first real fender-bender at an intersection in Cardiff. Also, for the first time on this trip, George managed to upset a local driver with his cavalier interpretation of their road rules. I thought our own van was honking for no reason as our vehicles electrical problem continues to mount.
The van is running like a jewel, but for no apparent reason, the secondary (appliance) battery ceased to function properly creating an electrical hazard in the vehicle which we need to address when we get to Germany. This means we are without interior lights in the evening and our water pump does not work. These are not major problems. We plug in at the campsites so our food is always safe.
Pulled in to Bath, England for dinner and the evening. Plan to walk Bath tomorrow and visit Stone Henge and possibly catch the ferry to France tomorrow.

June 26

June 26th (rainy blowing morning, sunny, but still cold in afternoon)
Did dishes from last night because they closed the washing area at 6 pm the night before. We were off very soon after that heading south to better weather hopefully. We did some walking around Aberystwyth in the sunshine. It was obvious from the look on the locals’ faces that they too were enjoying the warmth of the sun and the fact it was not raining. We heard on the radio about all the floods and realized that we were lucky to have made it through the Snowdonia Park. Picked up some Stilton cheese, salami and buns for lunch and a couple more Maeve Binchy books for me to read. She is the only author that has captured my interest for reading. I have read three novels so far this trip.
We drove and stopped at different places along the way and often commented on how pretty Wales is. We would highly recommend it. A couple of women from Michigan had mentioned a place called Devils Bridge not far from Aberystwyth. We drove to and very much enjoyed the walk through the forest to the waterfall looking up to three bridges constructed on top of one another in the 1300’s, 1700’s and 1900’s.
We continued driving and were totally entertained by the unusual Welsh language and spelling of the towns and villages. The language seems to be like talking backwards with no vowels and double letters and combinations of letters that do not make any sense at all i.e. Plwmp, Kyfmbry uchef.
We stopped for the evening in St. David’s, a town on the Irish Sea coast in a very lovely camping spot overlooking the Sea. Went for an enjoyable walk along the water and returned to use our disposable barbecue and cooked chicken and potatoes. Delicious!

June 25

June 25th (very rainy, windy and stormy)
We were awoken to a blustery rainy morning and left right away as there wasn’t much else to do except drive. We arrived in Conwy and could hardly get out of the car because of the weather. All day today, the news has been about floods, power outages, trees down and even some deaths from drowning. At one point, the storm drain covers were lifting. While we drove through the Snowdonia National Park, we experienced rivers and streams in full-flood stage, resulting in stunning waterfalls (all around us!). The rivers were angry-looking with the excessive runoff because of over 4” of rain. Ferries were shut down, the mountain pass we went through closed down just after we passed through. It only reached 8 C today, but with the wind it feels even colder. Again, it is too bad because the scenery is fantastic here.
George is continually driving south determined to find better weather, but after 8 ½ hours of driving, we camped in the university town of Aberystwyth. We thought Scottish and Irish Gaelic was interesting and hard to pronounce. Nothing compared to the Welsh language. We are hoping the weather improves enough for us to walk around tomorrow.

June 24

June 24th (sunny, cloudy, a bit rainy)
We drove 140 kms to the Dublin Port Ferry terminal for our 2:15 pm ninety-minute fast ferry ride to Holyhead, Wales. Met a lovely family from Calgary who had come over for a wedding in Edinburgh. They stayed at B&B’s and rented an apartment in Edinburgh which made it easier because their two children were under two years old. I mentioned the fact that our daughter has just moved there, as well our best friends two boys, etc. etc. Turns out they are both doctors, Dr. Rohal Lall and his wife Dr. Puddy. Dr. Lall mentioned that he was aware of Dr. Owen Reid. Small world!
Upon arrival in Wales we noticed right away that their road signs were large and legible, understandable? No, thet did have English translation bellow. Also noticed that they have large numbers of campsites. We found one just off a picturesqe bay and looked forward to walk to the beach and travel around Wales. Unfortunatley the weather took a nasty turn from bad to worse, we hardly got out of the van except to wash clothes. The reception was not open when we arrived so found a spot to plug in. Our first impression of Wales is that it is very beautiful.

June 23

June 23rd (sunny, cloudy and cool)
Left Dingle for a nice ride along the Dingle Bay and it really wasn’t “a long way to Tipperary” after all. We stopped at Cahil and walked around the 13th century Norman castle and had our lunch on the side of the main road. The roads in Ireland are very narrow and do not lend themselves to bicycle riding. No one compares to the Dutch when it comes to being bicycle-friendly.
Besides the bright-coloured, freshly painted homes, sheep and cows and never-ending green fields of grass, bushes and trees, Ireland has not really done it for either of us. To take the ferry from Scotland to Ireland and return to Wales, the cost including camping and petrol was well over $1,000 Cdn. This does not include the cost of the round-trip cost to England from France which is another $500 Cdn. This explains the lack of campgrounds. Even though they are still $35/night, they have not been very well cared for. Scotland was a much more interesting country to drive through as mentioned before.
With only 4.5 million people and so much land, there is building everywhere. There also seems to be a fair amount of cash flow and employment seems to be good. We see the children engaged in games and activities that we were at the same age, not what our children (in North America) are doing, i.e. video games, etc. etc. We believe it is a more family-oriented society per se.
Besides an abundance of road-killed wild rabbits and other little creatures, a fox ran in front of the van today. We see a fair amount of deer and of course, the sheep still appear on the road out of nowhere.
Pulled into Kilkenny at 2 pm and after getting settled, walked through the most well-restored medieval town in Ireland. While in the grounds of the Kilkenny castle, we talked with a couple of young guys who were carrying hurling bats and were informed of a tournament being played. Although we were pretty hungry (and thirsty), we walked over to the grounds and were educated about the unusual sport of hurling. This game is only played in the Tipperary district of Ireland and is especially played in Kilkenny. Very rough sport I must say, but interesting. Girls also play, but it is called “camogie”. I certainly know a couple of girls in my life that would have been KILLERS in this game. It is played with 15 players on a very large pitch and boy do they swing that bat. The only protection is for the head.
Came home around 6 pm after a great afternoon, had a goulash and mashed potato dinner, played our usual cards and crashed around 10. We decided to just drive through Dublin, and catch the ferry to Holyhead, Wales tomorrow. We have seen enough Irish pubs, hotels, shops and churches and are ready for a change.

June 22

June 22nd (sunny and cloudy)
Left the Limerick area for a short, beautiful ride along the Dingle Peninsula overlooking the Atlantic. George chose the ring of Dingle instead of the ring of Kerry on suggestion of many of the locals that Kerry is far too commercialized. As we were driving, I mentioned a particular odor and we discovered the converter that we plug into the cigarette lighter outlet was smouldering. We were able to find a European-style “power converter” in a computer store in Kerry which made Georg very happy because he depends on the power for the computer for directions while we are driving. We also purchased another calor gas canister. This is the first replacement considering the amount of cooking I do. We keep a spare on hand also.
We arrived around noon to a 300-year-old hunting lodge converted into a hostel and camping site. Georg and I were always of the impression that hostels were for “youths” and not old farts like us. They are available to anyone and can be booked in advance, including double rooms. The prices vary, but are quite reasonable, but still twice as much as camping which is costing us approx. $35 Cdn/night.
Along our drive we discussed that Scotland has a much more varied and dramatic topography than Ireland and England. There are definitely fewer campgrounds and they are not maintained very well. Seems most people travel by coach and do B & B’s. We do enjoy the delightful colours the Irish paint their homes and old buildings. There are not so many brown-rock fences, but instead hedges of wild red fuschias and other beautiful shrubbery. On our travels today we saw why they refer to Ireland as the “Emerald Isle” as the sun broke through the clouds highlighting segments of the patchwork countryside.
Signs are posted in Gaelic only and Dingle is an example of a place where this is creating a huge political backlash as the locals voted in favour of amalgamating “Dingle” and the Gaelic version together for tourist dollar reasons. However, a politician outside of this chose to ignore the popular vote and posted all signs in Gaelic only. I’d hate to be in his shoes as this galvanized the locals in a “town-denied-democracy” mission.
We enjoyed our walk around, but decided to go pub hopping in Dublin even though Dingle is known for its pubs and Irish and bluegrass music. Came back, had dinner, played our usual and were in bed by 10.

Friday, June 22, 2007

June 21

June 21st (sunny and rainy)
Talked with a lovely older Dutch gentleman with a ’73 VW bus that he had camperized himself. He is a mechanic and gave us that our van sounded great. We are still considering selling it ourselves or possibly putting it in storage if it runs well until the end of the trip. We are very comfortable, especially when it has been raining quite a bit in Ireland and we feel so protected from the elements.
We drove the short distance to the famous Cliffs of Moher. What a beautiful sight especially on such a sunny morning. After that we drove along and saw a little pitch & putt course and decided it would be nice change. George and I had a few good laughs. I am really looking forward to golfing often next year now that I am retired.
There was a traffic jam in Limerick so we decided to pull in for the day. The camping place isn’t the best we’ve been to, but we were pleasantly surprised when we went for a walk around the site and discovered the ruins and grounds of the famous Irish poet named Aubrey DeVere. The grounds were absolutely gorgeous. There are not as many camp grounds in Ireland and we like to call it a day with driving around 3 pm. Our next stop is Dingle which is famous for its pub life. In Ireland, 41% of the population is under 25 years of age.

June 20

June 20th (overcast)
After a howling wind and rain storm last evening that kept us awake half the night, we left Bushmills and drove 472 kms to the Cliffs of Moher on the west coast of Ireland. The Bushmills campground was the best equipped so far. It even had a bathtub, microwave oven and free internet access. It was so good to finally hear from our No. 1 son Lucas.
It was a tiring day of driving and the weather was not very conducive to enjoying the sights of this beautiful country, even though so far, we both think Scotland was even more beautiful than Ireland. We entered into the Republic of Ireland from Northern Ireland and immediately noticed the Irish Gaelic writing, the switch back to kms and not miles and Euros and not Ls. The people in the Republic appear to be more affluent for the reason that they got in line with the European Common Market and on the high-tech industry. There are an amazing amount of B&B’s, pubs and places to eat everywhere. We do not see nearly as many caravans, but many tour buses.
We had a bangers dinner with salad and rice and played cards as usual.

June 19

June 19th (sunny and cloudy)
Today, after a ten-hour sleep, we drove to a suspension bridge over a salmon run on the Irish Sea. It was a lovely walk, but the bridge was not very scary compared to our suspension bridges. Again, scenery is spectacular along the coast. Next, we headed over to the Giants Causeway. I did not know what this was. It sounded like a large highway to me. This World Heritage Site consists of beautiful hexagon-shaped basalt formations and involves local folklore about a “giant” placing stones in order to walk across the Irish Sea from Ireland to Scotland to meet up with his true love.
We drove back into Bushmill, did some food shopping and ate our lunch in the Bushmill Whiskey Distillery parking lot amongst all the tour buses. I was speaking to the butcher about how everything is packaged more than home i.e. ready-made salads, sandwiches, etc. His comment was that everyone works such long hours. I asked him how many hours he works in a week. His reply - 72 hours. The tour was very interesting, but I still do not like straight alcohol. George bought a small whiskey for our own consumption.
Because it was 4 pm when we finished the tour, we decided not to drive to our next destination and instead camped for the night. Had roast chicken and potato salad, played crib, and settled in for the evening. We have a lot of driving tomorrow to get ourselves back on track.

June 18

June 18th (sunny and cloudy)
I had a restless sleep thinking we might not get up on time for the ferry to Belfast. Had breakfast and headed for ferry terminal to take the two-hour ferry . This ferry was like a small cruise ship and was very fast moving, (40 knots and jet-propelled). We paid the money and had one hour to tap into our internet while on board.
When we got to Belfast, we realized very quickly again why we do not like cities and found the M1 for our one hour drive to Bushmill. Arrived in Bushmill to an unusual campground where the owner would not stop cutting the grass all day – and we were trying to have a quiet drink under the tarp that George so painstakingly erected. Also, the stench of “slurry” almost did me in. Slurry is the mixture of “piss and shit” from the cows that they fertilize the fields with. I took an antihistamine and eye drops for the first time in my life, but ended up having a two-hour snooze.
Had dinner, played cards and slept for ten hours.

June 17

June 17th (sunny)
Got up this morning a little hung. Said goodbye to the Scots before they “spread ashes”. Had a substantial breakfast of fried eggs, potatoes and baked beans before heading south to Stranraer to take the ferry to Ireland tomorrow. Stranraer is the southernmost part of mainland Scotland. We decided not to tour Glasgow because of our obvious dislike of larger cities. Our route took us through the perimeter of Glasgow and we thought it looked very nice, but if we were not going to visit Len and Carol Thorburn, we decided to just pass it by. We were going to visit the Oban whiskey distillery today, but it would not be open today (Sunday). We also passed through Ayr which is the birthplace of Robbie Burns.
Besides passing the third ski area in Scotland (there are four), we stopped at a rest stop where we enjoyed a busking bagpiper. We passed by the golfing area of Turnberry. The day and drive was gorgeous considering they have had torrential rainstorms and flooding in this part of Scotland the last couple of days.
After buying our ferry ticket for the equivalent of $250.Cdn, we parked ourselves at a lovely place for the evening. It is so nice to have the warmth of the sun again.

June 16

June 16th (cold, sunny, windy)
Last night while we were downloading our blog, we met a couple of very nice gentlemen called Richard and Roger that travel and climb mountains. One of them looked very much like our friend, Charlie Telford. Enjoyed our beer and cider as well as their company.
Today, we left Ullapool without paying for our night’s stay, but we couldn’t find anyone to pay at the reception and they didn’t come around the next morning before we left. We travelled about 20 miles and realized that we had better return to Ullapool and gas up just in case we ran out of gas. Gas prices are double the price at home and it costs us about $120.Cdn to fill the tank.
Our drive was again very beautiful -- lots of mountains, trees, wild rhododendrons and very skinny roads, usually enough room only for one car, (and you better keep your eyes peeled for sheep on the road – they are very stupid). The Squamish highway is very safe compared to these backroads.
We think our country has lots of open space – Scotland seems even more under-populated than its population of five million. We crossed the bridge to the Isle of Sky and took the ferry back to the mainland. The trip was not really worthwhile as the scenery was exactly the same and the ferry cost us $50 for a 20-minute ride. We have observed a fair amount of Gaelic written and spoken in this part of Scotland. Georg and I often said that the scenery is even more beautiful than home.
We arrived at Glencoe (historical betrayal between the Campbell’s and the MacDonald’s) and met four guys who had just walked and drank their way to Glencoe to distribute an uncle’s ashes. We sat and drank with them until bedtime. By the end of the evening, I could not understand one word they spoke. Barbecued chicken and baked potatoes for dinner. Great evening.

Friday, June 15, 2007

June 15

June 15th (sunny, very windy)
We were off before 8 a.m. Georg drove today because there was no need for a navigator (I can’t figure out the computer program anyway). We drove the scenic route across the top of Scotland passing through Thurso and part way down the west coast to Ullapool. We were totally taken with the scenery and often stopped to get out and just take it all in. We stopped at a place called Smoo Caves for a walk and had our lunch. We only saw about five people all day. The many towns and places we passed through consisted of about three homes each and although this is the only road in northern Scotland, we saw very few cars. The roads are single-lane and there are many places where you just “pull over”.
We arrived in Ullapool around 2 pm and parked right on the ocean. For the second time, we saw a German Rotel bus (rolling hotel) which is comprised of a regular tour bus that is towing a 42-berth hotel and portable kitchen. What a unique idea. We walked into town and found a pub to download our blog and check our emails. Had a pork chop and mashed potato dinner, played cards, had a few bevies and hit the sack. Hopefully we will not blow away tonight.

June 14

June 14th (sunny)
Had a great sleep even though we had our sleeping bags over our heads because it was so cold. After breakfast we walked the cliffs of Dunscansby Head. It was fun to watch the nesting puffins and other birds as well as the seals in the ocean. The tides and currents in the strait between the Orkney Islands and John-o-Groats run at around 10 knots making navigation very difficult. Many shipwrecks have occurred through this channel. Georg knew all about the war history regarding the Orkneys. After the First World War, the remains of the German navy were anchored at Scapa Flow by the British. Prior to final disposition of the Germany navy, the Germans scuttled all 76 battleships instead of turning them over to the English. There they remain today under water. The winter storms here are of giant magnitude, waves actually breach the concrete harbor enclosures with 40 foot waves. There are many tour buses that stop and take the ferry to the Orkneys for the day.
We decided to stay here a couple of days to unwind because we have been doing a fair amount of driving. It was a great day for that. I watched a couple of fishermen bring in their shellfish catch of velvet crabs, brown crabs and lobster. Their comment to me was that Brits work “just to live”. We walked, beach-combed and walked some more. Went to bed around 10:30 after watching a fabulous sunset.

June 13

June 13th (raining, blowing and cold in morning – sunny in afternoon)
For the first time, I slept in longer than Georg. At 5 a.m., George emptied our pee pot, (red bucket that we use when we don’t want to walk to the bathroom in the middle of the night), and I stayed in bed because it was so cold and miserable out (6 degrees C). Our canvas on the pop top even leaked a little at the zipper. Made a quick cup of coffee and we were packed up and on the road before 7:30 a.m.
As we began heading down the east coast of Scotland, the weather changed to sun and the bluest sky we had ever seen and because we had not had breakfast, we pulled over and had porridge. Outside of Wick, we stopped and stocked up at a very large grocery store chain. The prices and selection were similar to home. We also bought two comfortable lounge-type chairs, a tarp and some other items that will make everything even more comfortable. We will definitely be asking more for the van when it is resold. Who knows, we may keep it in storage for next year. The only problem is that we are running out of space, so if anyone is planning on visiting us, they will have to bring along a small tent.
We pulled in to a place called John-o-Groats, which is the most northern town in mainland Great Britain. From outside our window we looked at the Orkney Islands. The weather is very brisk to say the least, but we still go walking a lot. We are so far north that it stays light almost all night. Beautiful spot.

June 12

June 12th (sunny day – stormy evening)
Our destination today was to a place outside of Inverness called Rosemarkie where we were hoping to watch dolphins. The drive was spectacular through the highest points in the Scottish Highlands, including the highest town called Tomintoule, as well as beautiful green treed areas resembling parts of B.C. The car was a little slow going up some of the mountains and I had to throw it into low gear a few times. It is running well and so far, we still have no complaints. We were surprised to see a couple of ski areas.
Picked up a smoked pork hock and ingredients to make a pea soup for dinner. The soup really hit the spot because when we got to the coastal campsite at Rosemarkie, it was so cold, rainy and blustery that the birds walked instead of their normal mode of travel. Because of the weather we opted to watch the dolphins with the aid of binoculars. As all the electric hookups were occupied, we couldn’t use our heater and kept the pop up roof down to conserve the heat from our candle and stove while cooking. Had a few drinks, (I like the Scottish cider), played our usual game of crib and hit the sack early.

June 11

June 11th (foggy & sunny)
We left by 8:30 towards northern Scotland with hopes of getting somewhere near Inverness. We passed interesting places like the “Firth of Forth” bridge to “Fife”. We stopped at St. Andrews and this confirmed again to us how much we like smaller places. The price for a round equaled $250 US or 125 Ls and it was busy. I tried to get a couple of ball markers/cards, but to no avail. If I had to buy them, it just wouldn’t be the same so I took a few monogrammed napkins from the washroom. We also appreciate smaller places because of the food shopping in the specialty shops. I think of my friend Echo and how much she enjoys good cheese and bread.
As we drove this part of Scotland, it was in the back of my mind to try to get to see Carlogie House. When we were in the tourist office at St. Andrews, I got the address and we proceeded to change our driving plans to drive towards Carnoustie to find it. The Carlogie House is a small farmhouse hotel that a fellow workmate of mine from Telus and her family bought and were going to operate. Things did not work out totally as planned and they have since returned to Canada, but we did find it and visited the current owner, Hugh, who gave us a first-hand tour of the place and property. Len and Carol might be interested to hear that he sold the back buildings and property, built a couple of stone fences and will be renting out the whole place during the week of the Open. After that, he will be converting the current kitchen into an apartment and using the hotel as his own residence.
After a lengthy and very friendly visit with Hugh, we decided to stay in Carnoustie. We saw the golf course where the British Open, will be played next month, (possibly the last one in Carnoustie because of hotel availability), and also we saw the hotel that Tiger will be taking over for his entourage.
After walking and talking to the locals, we had dinner, played our usual crib and crashed.

June 10

June 10th (foggy & sunny)
After doing laundry and getting travelling tips for Scotland from a neighbour, we drove the 35 miles from Barns Ness to the Park & Ride into Edinburgh. Although it is Sunday morning, the roads do not seem as busy in Scotland. Our first impression of Edinburgh was not as we had expected. Except for the “Royal Mile”, which is the main tourist trap area of the old city, it is just another “large city”. As mentioned during the blog, we will not pay admission prices that equal $20.00 each to see a church or castle. Except for the castle and the main street, we found Edinburgh too touristy as well as a bit dull and depressing. We definitely enjoy the smaller, quaint villages and towns.
It was good to sit down at an internet café because for the first time on this trip, my knee was not good. We really praised our “Susi” when we arrived back to the Park & Ride. She’s a beaut! We had left the lights on for the four hours while visiting Edinburgh and she started immediately.
Had a delicious cod dinner and strolled down to the shores of the North Sea with our coffee and brandy to look for fossils. After cards, we realized this was the latest we had gone to bed – 10:30.

Sunday, June 10, 2007

June 9

June 9th (Sunny)
Left Durham at 8 a.m. looking to explore remnants of Hadrians wall, unfortunately most places are behind large hedges and admission is charged. As we have seen old stuff before quick snap shots will suffice, however we found a place in a sheep farmer’s property that had a large section of the wall and the footings of one of the towers. Went through the Scottish border at 1 p.m. Marginal differences in landscape and housing between the two countries – just more sheep and cows, brown rock fencing and never-ending farm land as we pass through small villages along the way. Very little traffic on the road today. We are camped 25 miles outside of Edinburgh at Barns Ness. It is advisable that we do not drive into Edinburgh so tomorrow morning we drive to a Park & Ride, leave our van and bus into the city. The campground was full and we would not be able to get an electric hookup until tomorrow morning, so this would be the first time we would try our fridge on propane since we were gassed out back in Holland by the poor workmanship of Hussein. It worked just fine, but still had a slight odour.
We were able to get a free night with our membership in the Camping & Caravan Club because of the “stamps” on our club passport. I met a lady in the campground who gave me lots of info about farm camping and a phone # for us to get a cheaper ferry ticket back from Dover to Calais. The ferries here are not part of the highway system like ours.
Weather is misty but not cold. In comparison our present latitude is about 200km north of Prince Rupert. Went for a walk along the shores of the North Sea, the area was noted for lime kilns. Georg had fun exploring. Had dinner, read, played cards and hit the sack.

June 8

June 8th (sunny with cloudy periods)
Again, up early. Most days I have showered and put coffee on by 6:30 a.m. Georg possibly would like more sleep, but that’s the way it goes in such a small space. We have a couple of cups of Starbuck’s coffee from our maker, read and then have breakfast around 8 a.m.
We walked to the Park & Ride about a mile away and caught the bus into Durham. Durham is a university city of 35,000 and is famous for its beautiful cathedral built in 1093 as well as the Durham Castle. We generally do not go in to an attraction if there is an admission charge. Most of the sights are somewhere around 8 – 9 L, which works out to $15 - $20. The cost of everything is very high in England and we are hoping it will be less expensive in Scotland. The L is worth approx. $2.40 Cdn. What is interesting is that what we normally pay in “$”, they charge in “L”. Therefore, everything is more than double our price. Our campground in Durham is 22L. That works out to almost $50 Cdn. Most of the campgrounds are full especially on the weekend.
I have been fighting a bit of a cold/flu bug, so along with drugs, I had a sleep this afternoon. So far, Georg has not caught it. It was a quiet day today overall. We plan on driving to Edinburgh tomorrow.

June7

June 7th (cloudy with sunny breaks)
Left our site in Ravenglass and drove most of the day expecting to arrive Durham mid-afternoon. The scenery was breathtaking as we wound our way up and over spectacular vistas reaching altitudes of 1900 feet. One thing to note are the amount of casualties (serious injuries/death) on some of the roads. An example would be 1245 casualties in 5 years on one stretch, with an average of 5 deaths per week over that length of time. That is unbelievable. We think they should consider slowing down a bit. Also noted the rabbit road kill, we must have seen at least 70 today.On way to Durham we passed by a town named “Cockersmouth”, famous for the Jennings brewey. We got out and walked in a lovely place called Alston and bought delicious bread, local cheeses and some home-made sausage from a prize-winning butcher. Also, enjoyed a walk up to a waterfall, had our lunch before continuing on our way to Durham. Arrived Durham around 3 pm, found a campground, went for a walk to the river Weer, had dinner and retired early after cards.

June 6

June 6th (sunny)
We got up again early and were on the road towards Ravenglass on the Irish Sea coast. We are able to walk from our campground to the shoreline. One of the highlights of the day was a 40 minute ride to an old slate mine on a miniature train through very beautiful countryside. Along the way were sheep, cows, pigs and mountainsides full of huge rhododendron bushes. The locals say they are almost becoming a “weed” in the area killing all the underbrush, etc. I rode the train twice (getting our money’s worth) while Georg enjoyed the beach and the surroundings of Ravenglass. Georg had a conversation with a local archeologist who gave him a 2,000 year-old piece of pottery from an old Roman ruin in the area. Met a lovely couple from Manchester,they concurred that most Britains are not enamored with their rail system nor their participation in the European Common market, had some laughs and a few drinks before we packed it in.

June 5

June 5th (Sunny)
Got up real early, 5:30, had eggs bennie, tidied up, (have to keep everything in order in such a small space),and fumbled our way out towards the Lake District before 8 a.m. Drive was absolutely beautiful through winding backroads of North Yorkshire and Cumbria where we came across many old small villages with very unusual names. Georg especially took a fancy to one called “Querenhow”. On the way , we encountered lots of sheep and cows and neverending cultivated fields. Sometimes the sheep are in stone fence enclosures, but a few times today I almost made mutton out of one in the middle of the road around a quick bend.
The scenery today ranged from barren hills to very treed. We often stop along the way and enjoy the wonderful old (1100 A.D.) churches and buildings or stop and buy groceries. Georg and I have always been very interested in reading gravestones and England has some very interesting yards next to the churches. Georg speculates that the road builders over here laid out the system assuming that everyone knows where they are going. This leaves us driving tourists fair game for the locals. Also noticed that “pull outs” for scenic vistas are nonexistent. If your car breaks down, a traffic jam is sure to follow.
Today we took advantage of a Wi-Fi site that Georg picked up as we were stuck in traffic, so we quickly pulled off the road to a very old but quaint hotel. We had some cappuccino and downloaded our blog. Most of the time, we have to pay approx. 3 pounds to access. Unfortunately, we are still not able to attach pictures to the blog. We made several attempts but to no avail, until we figure out the process, we will forward some pictures via hotmail.
Our destination for today was to arrive at Ravenglass on the west coast of England, however due to the many twists and turns on this two-lane road, we pulled in to a campsite in the town of Coniston, which is in the bottom/middle of the Lake District National Park. We appreciate why the English are enthralled with this area. It abounds with treed hills, rivers and lakes and if we did not know any better, this could be any campsite on the coast of B.C.

Tuesday, June 5, 2007

June 4th (sunny)

June 4th (sunny)
Had porridge for breakfast this a.m. and drove our van to the Monk’s Hill Park & Ride and took the bus into York. The city was interesting because of the Roman influence, but I personally enjoyed Chester more. The average wage in England is somewhere around $22,000 L and the minimum wage is $4.80L which isn’t very much when everything costs quite a bit more than at home. We got a little lost coming back to the camp site and returned about 3:30 pm after spending the whole day in York. We were playing cards after dinner with a glass of brandy when we heard a funny horn honking. About three times a week a van comes around selling delicious fish & chips. George had to have a small order. Very enterprising this couple. They service three different campgrounds and make at least 50 – 100 L at each sight. Spent the evening viewing our recent pictures and videos and planning the next leg of the trip (the “Lake” district). We will be leaving early tomorrow morning. Georg’s observation on the English road system: there built on the assumption that everybody knows where they are going – not very “user friendly” for tourists. Try stopping somewhere to check your bearings. Not possible.

June 3rd (sunny)

June 3rd
Woke up early to another beautiful day to start out at 8:30 am for York via places like Telford, Wolverhamptom, Leeds and Manchester. Saw some of the famous soccer stadiums during our drive. The weather has been fabulous so far. The countryside is so very beautiful everywhere in England. We are totally amazed with the amount of arable land considering the population of the country and how small it is.
The couple from Manchester, Freida and David, told us to try and stop at Chester on our way north to York. We also spoke to them about the opportunity of one day doing a motor home exchange. At one point, we were one mile from the Welsh border. I was ignorant to the fact that Welsh is a language. As we expect York to be, Chester had a lot of the black and white tudor-style, very old buildings (1300’s). Extremely beautiful and a very romantic city. We bought groceries including good bread and cheese for our lunch in an exclusive hotel parking lot outside the city limits.
We drove a long way today (almost nine hours and 425 miles) and arrived at our site at 5 pm. What with the five-lane highways, driving on the opposite side and interpreting roundabouts, etc. via the computer program, we almost had a divorce in England. Somehow we made it to another of the “Club” sites. These are working out well; are very clean and are saving us approx. 5L/night which works out to $10.75 Cdn./night. We went to bed early as we expect two full days here.

June 2nd (sunny)

June 2nd
Both of us were up at 5 am, had a shower, breakfast of steak and eggs and on the road from London to the Cotswolds area of England. The sights, including the churches, are much more charming than what we saw in London and do not cost a thing, only a small donation. Very quaint and beautiful and lots of history. I am getting more used to driving on the left side especially with Georg navigating. Almost had him T-boned today though. We stopped at a another fabulous bakery and besides the bread, bought a delicious cake-like item called a “lardy” – a specialty of this area. The weather was fantastic again today, easily 20 and the countryside was extremely beautiful. Our van is running great and we have nicknamed her “Susi Q”. I know that is a bit corny, but anything for superstition. We have settled into a campground in Chipping Norton and we will be heading to York tomorrow. George and I decided to take in a local beer festival which involved a six-mile round-trip walk. Talked with the locals (800 in the village of Carrington). Everything is wonderful!

June 1st (sunny)

June 1st
After a very long sleep and a quick breakfast, we raced the two miles to the Gertsey train station for the 9:10 am trip to London. We immediatey found an internet café to bring this blog site more current. After that we decided to store Georg’s knapsack containing the laptop (very heavy) at the station. Although we took the subway often and were able to sit, it really took a load off his back (pun). We saw many of the must-see sights like the Tower Bridge, Trafalgar Square, London Tower, etc. but decided not to pay admission charges to any of them. We will see a lot of churches and such that we do not have to pay the equivalent of $15. - $20. Cdn./each. The subway is a wonderful method of transportation. One thing quite scary was that there was a bit of a gang-style beating in Trafalgar Square with lots of police chasing. This was the first time we had seen the dark side of London.
We returned home around 7 pm (after a bit of a mixup with the train transfers) and we had a couple of gin and tonics and steak for dinner. Listened to the England-Brazil soccer game on our radio and went to bed quite early.

Friday, June 1, 2007

May 31st

May 31st
Surprised to wake up to a nice day as we had heard that the weather was to be awful for the next couple of days. This made for a nice 20-mile train trip from our Gertsey campground into the centre of London. Met a couple of helpful individuals who gave us advice on what we should see and do on our first day in London. We went on the famous London “Eye”, which is a king-size ferris wheel 400 feet high that takes 40 mins. to go around. Quite scary for me because of my fear of heights. We continued walking and taking in all the obvious sights like Big Ben, Lady Di’s memorial garden, Buckingham Palace, Westminster Abby, etc. We will go back again tomorrow to see the other big “draws”, but are both of the opinion that “cities are cities no matter where” and we enjoy smaller places. Our opinion of London is that it is a very sophisticated city with polite people and appears to be very orderly. Must say, would not want to attempt driving and that is of course why we took the train and used the underground. Stopped into a very old pub and had a couple of pints. When we got home after nearly eight hours of non-stop walking, we enjoyed a shower, dinner and a well-earned rest.

May 30th

May 30th
After eating eggs bennie and fresh strawberries, we cleaned up our belongings. Georg, with the help of our English neighbours, managed to fix the leak in our sink water pump and tighten the fan belt. Needless to say, he also brought along tools and gadgets to fix things. It rained horribly last evening, but again we stayed toasty warm and dry. We are sleeping very comfortably. Picked up groceries at a large grocery chain store. One thing for sure – we are eating well.
The drive was a bit hectic today trying to navigate the smaller roads via the computer program because of detours and changes since the program was designed. Instead, we got on the main five-lane highway into London. A little scary, slow because of congestion and rain, but we managed to get to our “caravan club” location in Chertsey about 20 miles outside London. We are having some pretty nice dinners. Tonight, wild Alaskan salmon, stir fry and rice. Settled in for our usual reading, cards and bed by 10. We will be up early to catch train into central London tomorrow.
Some early observations of England are that the women especially are quite heavy , sloppy and are either very young and or single mothers. We also notice that there is more garbage and dog shit on the streets, less pride of home ownership and that more people seem to smoke. Interesting how much more healthy, slim and active the people are in Holland especially (possibly because there are so many bicycles).

May 29th

May 29th
We spent a more sunny day today walking historic Canterbury for almost seven hours visiting a museum and the oldest church in England. Had a lovely lunch at the Strata restaurant recommended by a lady who picked us up at the bus stop, purchased a used electric radio and reading material in a “Charity” shop , visited a golf course nearby and walked back to our VW home for a macaroni and cheese and salad dinner and more cribbage. We will be heading 90 kms to London tomorrow (7.5 million people!!!). We are sitting in our van with the heater on comfortably listening to the rain while we are both reading and will head to bed around 9:30. We are usually awake by 6 am.

May 28th

May 28th
To day we began early towards Canterbury on very small back roads. Georg is loving the program he received from John and Steph and would not be able to navigate our route as well without it. We noticed a high pitched squeal from the engine. Georg took a look and deduced that either the loose fan belt is the culprit or the water pump. For now, we sprayed WD40 on the belt and will look at the belt tension later. We arrived in a campground that we were able to purchase a temporary L20 Overseas Membership for the Camping and Caravanning Club of UK. This is about $10 Cdn/night savings on the cost of approx. $35 Cdn/night . We paid between $10 - $20 Cdn/night in Belgium and Holland. So far, the facilities in all the campsites are perfect for us. We plug into electricity, showers are hot, and everything is clean and orderly.
We saw a bit of Canterbury and attended a beautiful service in the Canterbury Cathedral listening to an angelic choir. The cathedral was built in the 500’s and completed in the 1500’s and is massive. Looking forward to exploring it more tomorrow. We exited to a downpour of rain and proceeded to use our ponchos to walk back to the campsite. They worked perfectly. Georg thought of everything for our trip. When we returned for dinner, I remembered that there was an electric heater left from the previous owners of our VW. Well, now we really were in heaven listening to the BBC, enjoying a glass of wine before dinner and toasty and warm inside our van. What more could we want.

May 27th

May 27th
This morning after having French toast, fresh strawberries, juice and coffee, we left Ypres and drove to the largest war memorial in Europe, (Tyne Cot), as well as the Canadian and German memorials in the area. The memorial sights and the magnitude of war dead in this region alone, (500,000), is mind- numbing. What a senseless waste of life. We received a couple of Canadian pins from a Winnipegger that we met. We continued through the last of Belgium, then into France, and took the ferry from Calais to Dover; passing through three countries today. The cost for the 90 min. trip across the English Channel was $120 E (which works out to approx. $180.Cdn). The “Chunnel” was not a consideration because of cost. I chose to stay warm and dry during the crossing while Georg was on deck taking pictures. Noticing that at mid-point both coastlines were clearly visible, he quipped, “ What stopped the Germans when they were so close ?”
Now the fun begins driving on the wrong side of the road, (English say “right side”), as well as our driver’s seat being opposite. So far, I have hit the curb once and almost had Georg broad-sided . Sure enough, we have had great weather on the continent and now first day in England and it is raining, windy and cold in contrast to the 35 degree weather Britain had in April. Everyone is quite tanned. Georg noticed that everyone is quite a bit bigger that in Holland. Bike riding over here is not as prevelant, probably the hills and very narrow roads are contributing factors. We were planning to drive to Canterbury, but because of the “driving training” and the weather conditions, found a campground straight away. Washed clothes in a machine instead of washing by hand.